The Gerber EZ-Out is a knife I have spent a lot of time with. It is a simple, inexpensive knife composed of a stainless steel blade and a Kraton grip with rubber inserts. It has a removable clip for pocket carry.
I have carried this knife more or less constantly for the past couple of years, only recently replacing it with a Benchmade Mini-AFCK which has a bit more sex appeal. Nevertheless, the Gerber EZ-Out has served very well.
Part of what I like about the EZ-Out is its price. I paid about $30 for mine a while back and they have come down a bit since then. The stainless steel blade is not an exotic designer steel, just an ordinary stainless. It took me a long time to get “my edge” on the knife but it now shaves hair effortlessly and holds the edge fairly well. Through all of the camping and daily carry, the blade hasn’t corroded or discolored. If I lose it on a trail, I’m out $30 not $300. But if I did lose it, I would miss it, because it has handled everything I have thrown at it.
If I have a criticism of the knife, and perhaps the reason I switched to the mini-AFCK, is that the EZ-Out isn’t a quick opener. You can open it with one hand, so I guess it qualifies as a “tactical folder” but there is some resistance since it doesn’t have steel liners. The blade rubs against the Kraton handle material rather than steel liners, and that causes more resistance than a polished steel liner. The only problem with the knife that I had was that the screw which holds the clip on and adjusts the tightness of the handle to the blade had a tendency to work loose and I had tighten it and put a bit of blue Loctite on the threads.
I’m not one of those ultimate warrior knife fighter types who would rather take on a bad guy with a blade than a gun. My use for a knife is mostly utility rather than tactical. I open dog food bags, remove splinters, cut fishing line and whittle with my knives for the most part. Nevertheless, I carry the knife on the left side so that I can draw it while preventing someone from grabbing my pistol on the strong side. In other words, I think about the tactical dimensions of the knife while hoping I never have to employ them. Right now, I have the Mmini-AFCK on the weak side and the EZ-Out on the strong side, not so much because I’m expecting a knife fight, but simply that I can’t quite bring myself to retire the EZ-Out.
The Gerber EZ-Out is strong on utility. I doubt that it would be the choice for those who view their knife as their primary personal defense weapon, but for a very useful and reasonably priced survival tool, the Gerber EZ-Out represents excellent bang-for-the-buck.
Some thoughts on knife fighting:
I have collected and studied knives since I was a little kid and have thus far avoided engaging in a knife fight in these 48 years. The thought of engaging in a “spit blood in your face” knife fight is utterly repugnant to me. The human mind naturally recoils from the thought of cutting another human being or being cut by a knife. I think of my knives as utilitarian survival tools. They trim sticks, cut rope, open packages, clean animals, whatever. I would find it annoying at best to try to get through a day without a good pocket knife. I have owned just about every kind of knife you could imagine, and my preference is for good solid knives with quality steel and stout construction — a stainless lock-blade folder of about 4″ in blade length seems to be the optimum utilitarian configuration for me. Folding pocket swords don’t work for me and the very tiny knives seem a little bit silly to me. Despite this highly utilitarian perspective that I have on knives, it pays to consider the “tactical” characteristics of your pocket cutlery. There are times when you just can’t carry a gun. There are certain close range attacks that do not permit the drawing of a gun even if you have one. There are some situations in which a good knife is better than a gun. A gun does only one thing; a good knife does many things. I would rather deal with Mr. Evildoer with a gun, but I feel undressed without a good knife.
Running contrary to the current mania for folding “tactical” clip knives, I went shopping for a big, strong sheath knife for those extended backwoods survival treks and hunting trips. I looked at a bunch of knives and there are a bunch of knives out there. After looking at a bazillion or two, I settled on the Cold Steel SRK (Survival Rescue Knife). It seemed to have the right balance of size, style, price, and quality for the mission I had in mind – hunting and backwoods survival. I saw larger and more stylish knives, some ridiculously large and/or expensive, but the SRK hit the best convergence of features I sought at a price I felt OK about paying.
As a long-time knife enthusiast, it is delightful to me to see the proliferation of quality knife makers producing so many excellent offerings. The choice used to be Case, Buck, or Schrade with the occasional appearance of a Ka-Bar, Boker, or Camillus. With the exception of Ka-Bar and the pilot’s knife from Camillus, most of the edged offerings from the major makers were hunters or utility pieces.
Specifications:
Cold Steel SRK
Weight:
8.2 oz.
Blade
Thick:
3/16″
Blade
Length:
6″
Handle:
4
3/4″ long Kraton®
Steel:
Carbon
V® Black epoxy coat finish
Overall
Length:
10
3/4″
The “new generation” of knife makers, led by Cold Steel, Benchmade and Gerber, seem to have stumbled onto a whole grab bag of fresh ideas. Some of these ideas are no doubt inspired by the advent of new technologies in polymer plastics and metallurgy itself. Some of the influence seems to be the near-mystical tradition of Japanese edged weapons and the metallurgy which produced them. And finally, a highly significant influence is the concept of the “tactical knife” – in other words, a knife designed with the realization that it may need to serve as a weapon.
All of these influences are apparent in the SRK. It is a strong, business-like knife which radiates a spec-ops ambience. The only color on the knife that isn’t black is the small brass liner of the lanyard hole in the handle. The blade is coated with black epoxy which gives it a deep texture which absorbs light. The handle is “Kraton” (a substance we used to call “black rubber”) and is checkered for positive grip. It has a good single quillion finger guard, a feature that I like, and comes with a well built Kydex scabbard (Cold Steel calls this sheath material “Concealex”). The scabbard has snaps and strap loops for attaching the knife to a police-style tactical vest. (No, I don’t own a SWAT vest and don’t intend to buy one.)
Back to the blade: It’s six inches long and is 3/16″ thick with a clip point. It’s very substantial. Cold Steel hand sharpens their knives to a near-razor edge, so if you buy one, be careful with it or you can cut yourself before you know it. The steel of the SRK is “Carbon V” which Cold Steel describes as an alloyed carbon steel. When I started collecting knives, stainless steel in knives was a novelty – the Victorinox Swiss Officer’s Knife. The rest were made of carbon steel. Then came Buck with their stainless blades and the famous “hammer the blade through a ten penny nail” advertising campaign. From that point on, most knife makers moved to various formulations of stainless steel for their blades, mostly because it is easier to maintain. I have always felt that carbon steel took and kept a razor edge better than stainless. The downside is that carbon steel tends to be more brittle and therefore breaks easier. Those are my opinions and I’m sure that others have different perceptions, but my preference for getting a really keen edge on a knife is carbon steel. (I prefer carbon steel in 1911-pattern pistols too.) Hence, the Carbon V steel of the SRK appealed to me.
So did I drive it through an oil drum or stab it into a piece of oak to try to break it off? No. Did I take it on my latest black op mission? No, I’m not a SEAL. Did I fight a horde of blood-thirsty gang-bangers with it? No, didn’t do that either. It’s a really solid knife and not my first Cold Steel blade and I have every confidence that it will fulfill whatever expectations I place upon it.
From Cold Steel:
Survival/Rescue operations demand a versatile knife able to withstand extreme abuse. The SRK® was designed by Lynn Thompson with this in mind. No expense was spared in steel, heat treating and construction. Only expensive surface polishes have been eliminated.
Instead, the blade has a rich black epoxy powder coat to help protect the Carbon V® steel from the elements. The blade features a tremendously strong clip point that’s fine enough for delicate work, yet possesses enough belly for efficient cutting, slashing and skinning strokes.
Carbon V
An exclusive carbon alloy steel, formulated and extensively treated to achieve exceptional properties. Carbon V® was developed and refined by using both metallurgical and performance testing. Blades were subjected to the “Cold Steel® Challenge” as a practical test, and then they were sectioned, so that their microstructure could be examined. In this way we arrived at the optimum steel AND the optimum heat treatment sequence to bring out the best in the steel. We buy large quantities of premium high carbon cutlery steel with small amounts of elemental alloys added in the smelting stage. These elements enhance the blade’s performance in edge holding and elasticity. The steel is then rolled to our exact specifications to establish optimum grain refinement and blades are blanked to take full advantage of the grain direction in the steel.
The blanks are heated in molten salt, quenched in premium oil and tempered in controlled ovens. Then they are ground. The new blades are then subjected to expert heat treatment, involving rigidly controlled austenizing temperatures, precisely defined soak times, proper selection of quenching medium and carefully monitored tempering times and temperatures. This heat treatment sequence results in blades which duplicate and often exceed the properties of the most expensive custom forgings.
“The Cold Steel SRK is a good knife. They hold an edge and keep on going. For what it’s worth, my partner is a line tech for MCI and he has an SRK on his kit. It has survived the last five years.”
– Scott Smith
Ares is the Greek god of war. The Benchmade Ares is a fighting knife. There’s something about the way it rests in your hand, the feel of the grip and the shape of the blade that says, “This blade wasn’t meant for peeling apples.” Allen Elishewitz definitely has an eye for creating good-looking knives that function like fine machines.
The Model 730 (Burgundy/Black) and the new Model 735 (Green/Black) are the two variations of this design. (The knife pictured above is actually a limited edition Model 730 — more on that below). Handles are fashioned of a unique two-toned G10 which is dynamically shaped for personal distinction and appreciable performance. Just below the handle surface are double stainless steel liners with finger treads for improved control, and liners are also cleverly skeletonized to lighten the load. The Ares features a spear-point blade shape and dual thumb-stud openers. The powerful 154 CM blade combined with the patented AXIS locking mechanism makes for a superbly functional knife. Both models come with a movable carry-clip and lanyard hole for added security.
I have been carrying a Benchmade Mini-AFCK which I like a lot for style and quality, but I continued to be bothered by the difficulty in opening it. The Spyderco thumb hole doesn’t work well for me, especially left handed. My knife advisor suggested that perhaps my hands were just a bit too big for the Mini-AFCK and were the source of my difficulty with opening it. I carry my knife on the left side front pocket for a couple of reasons, the most important of which is that I carry my gun on the right (strong side). The rationale for doing this is that, in the event that someone was trying to get my gun, I could prevent the disarm with the strong hand and access the knife with the left in order to get the assailant off of my strong hand and the gun. Second to that, and far less tactical, I have always carried my keys and change in my right front pocket and I don’t want the knife in there too. To me, the gun is the primary weapon whereas the knife is a fall-back weapon and utility tool. Nevertheless, the knife is an extremely important piece of equipment to me. The gun can only do one thing; the knife does many.
Benchmade Ares Axis Lock Folder
Axis Lock™
The “Axis Lock” is a terrific design that amounts to a spring-loaded button near the hinge on both sides of the knife. In addition to the thumb studs, you can open the knife easily by pulling back on the Axis Lock button and flipping the blade open. The knife is fully ambidextrous and I like that. I can flip or use the thumb studs with either hand to open the knife quickly, and for this reason, I like the Ares a lot more than the Mini-AFCK.
There is one factor about the Axis Lock design does take some practice: the clip is attached at the butt end of the knife rather than at the hinge end. Since most clip knives have their clips attached on the hinge end, the Ares takes some practice to get used to the knife coming out of your pocket with the blade down. It is also wise to avoid loosening the hinge too much so that the knife does not accidentally open in your pocket.
The AXIS locking mechanism is an ingenious marvel that has been touted by some as quite possibly “the strongest folding lock ever.” It’s the culmination of four years of “tinkering” by renowned custom knife makers Bill McHenry and Jason Williams. The features of the AXIS lock are significant and greatly enhance the function of knives. First and foremost is the strength. This lock is definitely more than adequate for the demands of normal knife use. A close second to strength is the inherent AXIS advantage of being totally ambidextrous without user compromise. The blade can be readily actuated open or closed with either hand- without ever having to place flesh in the blade path. Lastly, and certainly not any less impressive, is the “smoothness” with which the mechanism and blade function. By design there are no traditional “friction” parts to the AXIS mechanism, making the action the much smoother. And it’s all reasonably exposed so you can easily clean away any unwarranted debris. Basically, AXIS gets its function from a spring-loaded bar which rides forward and back in a slot machined into both liners. The bar extends to both sides of the knife; spanning the space between the liners and is positioned over the rear of the blade. It engages a ramped notch cut into the tang portion of the knife blade when it is opened. Two omega style springs, one on each liner, give the locking bar its inertia to engage the knife tang, and as a result the tang is wedged solidly between a sizable stop pin and the AXIS bar itself.
I like the beefy feel of this knife. When it’s locked open, it feels more like a fixed blade than a folder. If you needed to drive it through a steel oil drum, it would go (although I wouldn’t advise punishing a beautiful knife like this in this way).
You will notice in the hinge close-up that this blade is dated “Nov. 2000”. When Benchmade brought out the Ares in 2000, the grip color was the burgundy and black scheme, but they also produced 1000 of the green and black knives. These 1000 knives were a sort of market test and were etched with the date of issue on their blades. Benchmade learned that people actually liked the green and black scheme better so they brought it out as a regular production item in 2001 with the model number 735 but without the dating on the blade. The green and black Model 730’s with the date on the blade are already collector items since there were only 1000 of them produced and no more will be made.
Benchmade knives ooze with the knife-maker’s obsession. Every detail, angle and material selection reveals intention and purpose. Nothing on a Benchmade is there “because that’s the way we’ve always done it.” Benchmade pays special attention to using only high quality, high performance components and materials in their knives. For those of us who really use our cutlery, this attention to detail and quality components pays off. I did read of one Marine who managed to break the tip of an AFCK while trying to pry something out of the tire of a Chinook, but I don’t have a problem with that. Steel hard enough to take a good edge is brittle enough to break if sufficient lateral force is applied.
The other thing Benchmade has going for it is style. I can stare at a showcase of Benchmades all afternoon. They’re just neat to look at. I like some of their styles better than others, but Benchmade has never built a boring looking knife. The AFCK has a dark, deadly beauty about it, particularly the models with the black teflon coating. Opened, the knife has a gentle curve to it when viewed from the side, suggesting the shape of a fang for the imaginative. Of the curve, Dexter Ewing says, “This curve helps to concentrate pressure where it’s needed most — on the blade.”
“AFCK” stands for “Advanced Folding Combat Knife.” In an unbelievable, lawyer-inspired wuss-out, Benchmade is attempting to rename the AFCK “the Advance Folding Camp Knife.” Yeah, right. I guess you need a fast opening, liner-lock, black teflon coated, combo edge clip knife designed by a SEAL in order to defend your campsite when the leprechauns rush from the woods to steal your beer and Cheese-Whiz. C’mon, Benchmade.
The AFCK is a “liner lock” styled folder, meaning that a portion of the liner moves in behind the rear tang of the blade when it opens in order to lock it open. There has been a great deal of discussion about the relative merits of the liner lock. Many feel that it is a more secure lock than the style which has the release on the back of the handle. At the same time, some of the tactical knife guys have managed to show that with some types of stabbing and twisting strokes, the user’s hand can release the lock. When I bought mine, the guy at the shop warned me against stabbing with it left handed. (If I’m down to stabbing someone left handed, I imagine cut fingers would be the least of my worries.) Nevertheless, if you are left handed, you should make sure you get the left handed variant of the knife.
Notes on features from Benchmade:
MODEL 800 AFCK & MODEL 812 MINI-AFCK FOLDERS
The Model 800 AFCK is one of Benchmade’s older designs, and it just continues performing well year after year. Perhaps it’s attributable to its unique erqonomic handle design which settles into your hand like a natural body extension, including the rugged G-10 scales and double 410 stainless steel liners with our modified locking-liner mechanism… Or maybe it’s the effective, utility blade style with the ambidextrous opener-hole* which lends itself to so many different applications. Whatever the reason may be, one thing we do know for certain is the fact that we build each one to the superior Benchmade standards, definitely doesn’t lessen its chances for optimum performance. And the smaller, Model 812 Mini-AFCK shares many of the same great features of the Model 800 for equally superior performance. Both models are available in the optional M2 high-speed steel if you’re looking for the ultimate edge. Each knife comes complete with a removable steel carry-clip for convenient “at-the-ready” carry.
MODIFIED LOCKING-LINER – Not all locking-liners are created equal… The difference
between function success and function failure is how well the locking-liner engages with the rear tang of the blade to lock the blade open. All Benchmade modified locking-liners utilize a patented radius or concave cut on the rear tang of the blade which enables the liner to “track” into a secured locked position for positive function.
ATS-34 STAINLESS STEEL A high carbon alloy steel produced by Hitachi® with super-fine grain structure which bodes well for excellent lasting edge sharpness. We temper to a Benchmade “custom” toughness which has proven to offer higher than average blade strength.
HANDLES
G-10 Developed as a circuit board material capable of withstanding extreme conditions without distortion or negative effect. A highly compressed epoxy and woven glass composite providing nearly indestructible strength and is of nominal weight. We laser cut and machine finish to final spec. G-10 is a medium weave, fabric base, high pressure glass epoxy laminate, and is about 40% lighter than aluminium.
LINERS
410 STAINLESS STEEL An ideal 400 Series steel offering good corrosion resistance and workability. We laser cut material to form, machine finish to spec and heat-treat for optimum performance strength.
BT2® COATING Our own proprietary blade coating is a black Teflon based polymer offering corrosion protection which exceeds the ASTM-117 specification for saltwater corrosion resistance. And due to its high lubricity, it helps make the knives operate more smoothly. COMBOEDGE™ Refers to our partially serrated plain blade configuration. Benchmade’s serration pattern offers ideal cutting ability for fibrous materials such as webbing, straps, netting or rope. HEAT-TREAT We specially heat-treat our blade steels to a “custom toughness” for Benchmade superior performance.
“This little knife has been my companion in South America on many occasions, but it’s not well suited for jungle or wilderness work. The ATS-34 blade immediately began to corrode when exposed to the dampness. It seemed I was constantly buffing the blade clean with a pinch of mud to remove the fine rust accumulating. The action jammed and was tight to operate due to rust and all the trash that collects on anything exposed to this environment. The AFCK came in handy for skinning out some small game and to salvage a skin from a 7 foot anaconda (pictured) that died after becoming entangled in a fish net, but as a general purpose pocket blade in wet climates it receives low marks. The Black-T coated version would be better, but still would not solve the problems associated with the folding action. On the good side of things, the blade holds an edge exceptionally well, easy to re-sharpen, and smooth as silk action when it’s clean and dry. Another plus to the AFCK is its concealability which works extremely well when you’re bumming around third world cities and can’t have a sheath knife flopping at your side. One word of advice though – be sure you pack it in your checked luggage for the flight home. I found out a couple years back that you can’t get on the plane with the Benchmade in your possession. Somewhere in the minds of the “politically correct,” the partially serrated blade make it a more deadly instrument, even though length requirements of the mini-AFCK fall into most airline legalities for carry-on pocket knives. Conclusion: carry the blade if you plan to do any city time or eco-touring on your trip, but stow it away once you hit the deep jungle and swap over to your sheath knife.”
Advanced Folding Combat Knife By Dexter Ewing, Knife Collector and Enthusiast
Sometimes, it may be difficult to find a knife that would fill the role of a utility tool as well as a self defense role. For those stuck with this dilemma, Benchmade’s AFCK is the knife you should seriously consider. This knife was designed in conjunction with Chris Caracci, a former Navy SEAL team operator and instructor at Gunsite Training Center in Paulden, Arizona (A word of note, the AFCK model 800S is the official knife of Gunsite). The AFCK is manufactured under license from Spyderco because it sports the blade hole.
There are several features the AFCK incorporates that sets it apart from the competition. First, there is a slight curve to the knife when opened fully. This curve helps to concentrate pressure where it’s needed most — on the blade. Second, one will notice the recess in the handle, close to the pivot end. This is the key to the great feel the AFCK has in the hand. On the inside of this recess is where you will find the Locking Liner release (which by the way is serrated for a good purchase when unlocking the blade). Personally, I really like this setup. The release is seated into the handle, making it impossible to inadvertently unlock the blade. It does take some getting used to, though. Instead of putting part of your thumb onto the liner itself, you touch the bottom end of the release. Because of the serrations there, your thumb may develop a minor sore spot from repeated unlocking. Third, the blade hole makes blade deployment a snap (so to speak!), even with work gloves on. Fourth, I discovered the AFCK’s hole is chamfered, eliminating any sharp edges. Comparing the hole with those on my SPydercos, it does not feel as harsh. Your thumb will definitely thank you for this!
As for the cutting performance of the AFCK, it is one serious cutting tool. For a few weeks, I proceeded to tote it around with me, using it for those “mundane” utility cutting tasks at work and in the yard. The AFCK went through cardboard quickly, with little pressure applied to the handle (the curve of the knife comes into play here). For those of you, like myself, who have a knack for landscaping and/or gardening, this is an ideal knife to have with you out in the field. I have put my AFCK through its paces by harvesting produce, trimming vines, and opening bags of fertilizer. Again, the knife can be used with one hand, without having to pull your gloves off. In terms of self defense, the AFCK will excel in this role as well as it does utility tasks. Thanks to the handle’s recess, your hand will never slide up on the blade. This knife feels like an extension of your arm during slashing and thrusting maneuvers. Under stress conditions, you must be able to retrieve the knife and open it with either hand. The blade hole and Locking Liner simplify this task.
In closing, the AFCK is a knife capable of fulfilling both roles of self defense and utility comfortably. It is a knife I would not hesitate to recommend to anyone looking for a large folder for utility purposes. If a large folder is not what you need, then take a look at the Mini AFCK. The Mini offers the same features
I would urge you to consider Wilson’s Covert Companion for an IWB holster for a 1911-type gun. I’ve used one for a couple of years now, every day, all day, at the office and elsewhere, and never had any squeaking or any other such nonsense. It uses snaps that are quite secure–this is also my range/match holster, and it is subject to vigorous use and thousands of presentations and re-holsterings. Also, unlike many IWB holsters, the snaps are offset from the “body” of the holster, greatly reducing the overall thickness of the holster compared to those (like the “Summer Special” type IWB, which I’ve also used) where the snaps are on top of the body of the holster. The mouth of the holster is not reinforced, but this is not the drawback it may seem. For one thing, the absence of reinforcing material helps keep the overall width of the holster way down (important, particularly for an IWB). In addition, the Covert Companion has a kind of leather flap (integral to the body-side of the holster that extends up several inches beyond the belt-line. This serves to cover the thumb safety, to prevent the rear of the slide from digging into one’s “handles”, and to provide a place where one can gently press the SIDE (NOT THE FRONT–this should not need saying, but obviously one should never angle the muzzle of the gun at one’s body while re-holstering) of the slide to open the holster enough for a smooth entry. I have no trouble re-holstering while keeping my eyes on the threat.
Cosmetically, the holster is just plain ugly–really, it’s little more than a sack-o-leather–but given its intended purpose (concealed carry) who cares? And it serves that purpose very, very well.
I would like to pass along some information back to you about holster choices for you and all the other 1911 carriers out their. I have been using the Wilson Combat Featherweight IWBtm for the past year and find this to be the best inside the pants holster that I could have ever invested in for carrying either my full size or even my compact Springfield’s daily.
This Holster is without a doubt a true Featherweight without really any bulk at all, much less weight and discomfort. It sports a screw-down oversize type Kydex J Hook that hooks under the belt, removing any weight on the belt and it can be adjusted to virtually any cant whatsoever that one desires, from anywhere between straight drop to 10% or 15%, or to the very extreme cant in either direction you need it. It keeps and holds that same cant position for as long as it’s needed or desired and then can be recanted with a simple Allen wrench adjustment.
The best feature I love about this holster is that its top portion of the rig is designed to lock and hold the thumb safety of the 1911 styles in the locked position for either single safeties or ambi carriers. I have never had to worry about my thumb safeties being in the off position since I’ve used this holster, and I have never once removed my weapon to find the safeties in the off position on either of my pistols. My full-size is set up for ambidextrous also and never has been a problem or worry for me.
The Wilson Featherweight holster in Black Only sells for a mere $56.95 in cowhide, or $74.95 in the top grain Sharkskin/Cowhide combo for right-handers only and fits 1911’s and most clones. Wilson also builds this holster for the Browning Hi Power’s in 9mm and .40’s. This holster comes with a complete soft light gray lining from top to bottom.
I never had to go through the major chore of breaking in this holster as it was perfect from the very first day it arrived. It has worked exactly the same from its first arrival to the present and never lost a bit of its shape, structure, appearance or its functioning capabilities.
I consider this to be the best investment in any holster style that I could have ever made. This holster has never let me down and has given me total concealment and even comfort no matter how I dress within reason. I’ve even almost often forgotten sometimes I’m even carrying!
Also, on long hard days of activities, I have incorporated the help of J-hook type Y-Style Suspenders in 1″1/2 width to ease the weight and to add comfort and control any shifting of my pants or holster. These suspenders use similar J-hook-style hooks that slip under the belt nice and neat with any slipping. J-type clips and are much simpler to hookup and depend on as they never come undone until you want them to be removed. They can be found through Perry Suspenders or Dickies Company. Both carry this style J-hook type suspenders in various widths. For concealment, either item or both can be concealed as well as the other without any attention drawn to one’s self. No real effort is needed to make the carrier more assured and concealed because the weapon stays where it is placed. It minimizes discomfort on the long days activities no matter what they be.
Uncle Mike's Sidekick Pro Dual Retention Tactical Holster
Tony “TRB” Phillips
Michael’s of Oregon, aka Uncle Mike’s, makes a fine selection of low-priced, mid- to-high quality holsters and other tactical accessories. Find them on the web at http://www.uncle-mikes.com or http://www.michaelsoforegon.com.
I acquired one of their Dual Retention Drop-Leg Tactical Holsters recently so as to have a more standard, nylon rig with convential thumb-break to cut my teeth on before trying out the Safariland 6004. This holster is adequate, but I was not fully satisfied with it.
The Dual Retention Tactical Holster is made of standard nylon web, reinforced with plastic. The plastic plate on the side bears four phillips screws, used to adjust tension on the weapon. The holster is an adaptation of the rest of the Dual Reten- tion line of standard, hip-worn holsters. It is made drop leg with the removal of its normal belt slides or paddles, and the addition of a wide, velcro covered nylon strap which attaches to the back of the holster with three allen screws. This strap can be bent at any point along itself when folded over. This allows one to adjust how high or low it rides on your leg, and a pair of smaller straps which wrap around the large strap add security and allow unlimited adjustment for different width belts. The allen screws, in combination with velcro both on the holster and the strap, also serve to hold the adjustable portion of the thumb-break on. It seems like it would allow the thumb break to shift around, but it does not. In that the holster is well engineered. The holster straps to your leg at the bottom with yet another velcro covered nylon strap, which threads through a pair of oval rings which are also mounted to the holster by way of the aforementioned trio of allen screws. It is adjustable to fit most legs by way of altering how much of the strap is pulled through the rings before folding the strap over on itself to secure it.
It all sounds nice, but in use this holsters has some shortcomings that cannot be ignored. First and foremost, this is a double action autopistol holster, and it shows. Despite the fact that I ordered a version that was supposedly designed specifically for the M1911A1 Government Model pistol, the thumb break was not oriented to properly secure the pistol when the hammer was cocked (condition 1). It could be secured, but I had to either adjust it low and twist the sewn-on portion of the thumb break to go down in front of the hammer, or adjust it almost to its upper limit and have the strap straddle the beavertail. Neither was satisfactory; the former, while secure, made a timely draw difficult, since I either had to painfully force my thumb in between the thumb break and the side of the beavertail, or unsnap it before taking my firing grip. The latter option was easy to disengage and draw with, but it lacked security. The gun could be wrestled out without undoing the thumb break. A lot of this concern goes away if you’re carrying a DA/SA or DAO pistol with the hammer down. That is what this thumb break was designed to cover.
The other half of the Dual Retention concept, though, worked well. The screw-adjustable tensioning on the holster allowed me to fit the holster easily to both my Government Models, and offered a confident, tight grip on the pistol for about the first inch of the draw. It then ramped off, allowing the gun to come easily out.
As I started wearing it into tactical drills though, another shortcoming showed through. The strap which goes around your leg is not secure at all. The Velcro tended to work loose quickly at anything more than a fast walk, and prone shooting would also sometimes unstick the Velcro, more while getting up or crawling than going down or actually shooting. Re-strapping it was quick and simple, unless the strap snaked out of the ring on the holster before I could grab it. All in all I would much prefer an adjustable strap with a quick release buckle, as employed on the Safariland 6004. Dual strap versus single strap is personal preference; when it would stay attached, the Dual Retention’s single wide strap held the holster in place comfortably and stably.
In conclusion, I would not recommend this holster to the M1911 user, in any form, due to its incompatible thumb break. However, Beretta, SIG, Glock, CZ, or Ruger users may be satisfied with it, especially in the standard hip versions. As for the tactical version, if you do choose one, replace the leg strap with a more secure one immediately. Your weapon and your leg with thank you for it.
I held an instructor’s certificate the first three years of our CCDW, and was irked by only one prohibition in the rules, although it is easily understood why it existed — the warning not to make brand-specific recommendations. Because of physical conditions which have created some very sensitive nerve and muscle bundles around my hips, I’ve been long on the lookout for belt and IWB holsters which rode high enough, or were canted far enough muzzle-rear to allow comfortable carry of large autos, especially the P220, and not print.
The IWB is Alessi’s M.O.B (middle of back), which I overlooked for years — can’t be comfortable — have to sit on it — bad place to carry — etc., etc. Wrong. Worn just toward the strong-side, about half way between its intended position and that of a usual strong-side position, it is the most comfortable holster I own, for a piece that large. I’ve worn it on day-long drives for as long as 18 hrs. with no discomfort and the extreme “FBI” rake clears my tender spots and tucks the butt in very close to the back. I’ve worn it under cardigan sweaters, tail-out sport shirts – no print.
Dillon Leather Master Holster
The other rig is the “Master”, from Dillon Leather, sold through the Dillon Blue Press catalog. It is a pancake style, double slot in any color you want as long as it’s black or brown. It also features a more extreme rake, and only needs the usual cover garment for a belt rig. Prices (I’m not current on this) should be around $70 for the Alessi, and $32-42 depending on which model for the Dillon. In either case, quality of both make them well worth the money. Alessi’s shop is small and Lou does all the final hand molding and finishing himself. Dillon doesn’t reveal his manufacturing source, but he is very particular what he sells, and has a no-questions guarantee. I’ve used both these rigs for over two years and have yet to find fault with them.
From Syd: I have used a Dillon Master for my Government Model for three years and feel that it is an excellent holster, especially given its relatively low price.
My two favorite holsters both happen to be made by Galco, the Quick Slide and the Royal Guard. I guess I tend to pick up Galco holsters because they’re on the shelves of the gun shops where I do business. I like to look at holsters and try them with the gun before I buy them. Someday, I may get adventurous and try a Milt Sparks or a Wilson in shark skin, but for now, the Galcos meet my needs pretty well.
The Galco Quick Slide is the most comfortable of the two. Mine is a deep cordovan color which looks good with my parkerized Kimber with its rosewood grips. The Quick Slide holds the gun close to your side, but not so close as to impede a quick draw. Since it rides outside the belt, it is very comfortable. It carries the gun just a little bit lower which again facilitates a natural draw. I tend to use the Quick Slide for IDPA matches because of its comfort and the way it draws. There are a couple of negatives to this holster. It doesn’t protect the gun very well since it only covers the area of the trigger and ejection port and up to a point just below the sight. You can bump into things with the gun when you’re wearing this holster. Since it hangs pretty low and is fully outside the pants, the only concealment that really works with it is a long jacket like a blazer or parka.
Galco Royal Guard IWB Holster
The Royal Guard is a terrific concealment holster, especially for large, heavy autos such as 1911-pattern, the Beretta 92F, and their clones. It is an “inside-the-waistband” (IWB) style holster in natural horsehide. It has two belt loops with flat black snaps. It has a reinforced collar which holds the holster open when the gun is drawn and does not collapse closed, making a one-handed re-holster possible. Since the holster rides under the belt, it holds the gun to your side very firmly. I think the IWB design supports the weight of a large gun better than most other styles since your belt supports it on one side and your body supports it on the other. This keeps the gun from leaning out away from your body the way that some pancake style holsters will do. With the IWB worn just behind the crest of your hip-bone, you could almost conceal the gun without a covering garment using only your arm ( I wouldn’t advise this, but that’s how well this style of holster holds the weapon). Since I like to wear short jackets and sweatshirts, this type of holster fulfills the concealment mission admirably without the problem of a muzzle peeking out from beneath a jacket or shirt tail. The negative of the Royal Guard is that it isn’t quite as comfortable as a holster which rides outside your belt, and if you have indulged in a bit too much turkey it can be a struggle to get on.
I thought I would take the time to compliment Milt Sparks on the new “VersaMax” IWB holster I recently received. Although I had to wait close to twelve weeks for delivery, this was explained when I initially placed my order. The holster works better in concealing my full size Colt 1911 than any of the other holsters I own. It is reasonably comfortable for a holster of this type. The price also seemed fair in view of the workmanship one can see in this product.
